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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.